quote:

Originally posted by fastjan:
Bitbyte, you mentioned that you suspect the blade coating or as you said, "matte finish" is keeping yours from being as smooth as your son's. I agree. Just loosen the pivot until you get the movement you want then use it for a few days. Then tighten the pivot a little after the use has smoothed everthing internal. Keep this up until fixed. If you use this method, flick the knife a few hundred times to get is smoothed out.
-fj

Are you saying loosen it up a bit even if it has horizontal blade play, use it, open/close a few hundred times then snug it back up to where the blade play stops and that may work?

Does this also happen with BK coated blades and will that method fix them as well?
I'm dealing with the same thing on 2 different coatings from BKC. One is BK and the other is ?? BK1 or whatever coating is on the 522 Ultra AXIS.

quote:

I'm going to have a look for some Breakfree at Ace hardware tomorrow to use for cleaning and to tide me over til i get the tuf-glide.

You won't find it there. It's made mostly for firearms. Wal-Mart has it and all gun shops. Generic word for it is CLP. Cleaner, Lubricant, Preservative (CLP). Many manufactures make it and it’s all good. It comes in an aerosol (can) or liquid (plastic bottle). Liquid is best but aerosol can be sprayed into a plastic/glass oil bottle or syringe for use on anything. Some manufacturers even sell it in a pinpoint/syringe type bottle. That’s what I have been using.

Good luck.

Yeah, I found some at the sporting goods store. It helped a little bit, and some of the deposits from the phosphor bronze washers came out, but it's still not as good as the mini grip out of the box. I'm afraid Ill have no choice but to figure out how to get the blade out and buff the pivot point.

I tried to get the pivot pin out but it has a flat spot on it to keep it from rotating and wouldnt come out. I suspect that the flat is only at the ends of the pin and I have to remove one of the g-10 scales to get it out.

Any hints would be helpful.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: bitbyte,

The flat goes the whole length of the pivot. Just tap it out from the other side.

I tried that, it wouldn't go past the outer edge of the g10. I didn't want to force it so I stopped. Maybe there's a bur on the g10 or something, I'll have another look this weekend since I need to adjust the clip as it is.

Also I got my militec sample in the mail today. So I'll use that when I reassemble.

Make sure to clean all the CLP/liquid type lube out before applying the Miltec. When dry and wet lubes combine they form a gel. The opposite of what you are trying to achieve. Let us know how it goes. I'm interested in doing this myself as well.

Yeah, I wouldn't ever think of mixing lubes.

I'll let you know how it comes out.

I dont think you can tap the pivot out of the 14210..It has torx screws on both sides of the pivot. If you remove both, you are left with a pivot pin that is nested in the liners...No getting it out without without full disassembly.

That's what I asked back on page 1...tapping out the pivot is what you do when there is "one" pivot screw. The only one I have done with two screws is a 525. For me, that took total dissassembly to get the blade out. Someone else may have a trick though.

-fj

I also recently did a blade swap on a 525 , I had to take the sucker completely apart also.