Great looking work, If you could only do something about those serrations.

Amazing work Drew! You have a great gift there, Keep up the good work and BTW thanks for selling me the BM 140, look forward to getting it.

Those new pics really show it off well. It looks great. The F&F is incredible. Keep up the great work man!!!

Thanks guys, I am working on a jig to do scales for the new 806-901's that just came out. It is a different game to get good fit and finish... AND keep the coating on the steel liners.

We will see how it goes!

Drew

Cool!

Wow, yea very cool! I can picture that nice CF on an M4 806...muhahahahahahahahahaha

quote:

Originally posted by Rezarf <><:
Thanks guys, I am working on a jig to do scales for the new 806-901's that just came out. It is a different game to get good fit and finish... AND keep the coating on the steel liners.

We will see how it goes!

Drew

Shoot me a pm if you get the jig figured out I may like a set since the real CF 806's are way 2 much! :P

quote:

Originally posted by Rezarf <><:
AND keep the coating on the steel liners.

You can try rough shaping up to about 1/16" from the liners, then use a well sharpened to pencil to mark the inside of the scale right against the liner, then just sand it down while it isn't mounted to the liners. This may take a couple tries before you get the fit spot on, but it is about the safest method I know of. Rather time consuming too. oh well

I did this method to prevent marking the liners on DJ's 710-801.

Good luck and great looking work Drew!

quote:

Originally posted by Anchorblew:

quote:

Originally posted by Rezarf <><:
AND keep the coating on the steel liners.

You can try rough shaping up to about 1/16" from the liners, then use a well sharpened to pencil to mark the inside of the scale right against the liner, then just sand it down while it isn't mounted to the liners. This may take a couple tries before you get the fit spot on, but it is about the safest method I know of. Rather time consuming too. oh well

I did this method to prevent marking the liners on DJ's 710-801.

Good luck and great looking work Drew!

Thanks Mike-

I am working on a pin router jig do do the omega spring recess, profile, and mill the slot of the axis bar to slide in, all in one shot...

... but I ain't got's me no CNC

I am close, we will see what we come up with.

Drew

quote:

Originally posted by Rezarf <><:
Thanks Mike-

I am working on a pin router jig do do the omega spring recess, profile, and mill the slot of the axis bar to slide in, all in one shot...

... but I ain't got's me no CNC

I am close, we will see what we come up with.

Drew

The way I am doing the milling for the omega springs is a bit more challenging than a jig set up, but it works for me.

If you have a full size drill press, this method will probably be much easier.

I use my dremel motor in a dremel drill press. This holds the dremel upright and in a stationary location for me. I then chuck in an 1/8th carbide cutting bit. From the slot that I already made for the axis bar I lower the carbide bit a 1/32 of an inch into place. I turn on the dremel and mill out the space for the omega spring by moving the scale under the stationary dremel with it's set depth.

Using a shopvac to keep the dust out of the cutting area is extremely helpful for making sure that your cuts are on line.

After this I test fit the scale to see if I have milled enough material for the omega spring to operate without binding or dragging on the inside of the scale.

Since you're making some very nice looking scales already. I guess you've learned the best method for good looking scales... take your time.

I've learned the hard way more than once now, to double check before cutting and grinding as doing the wrong side of a scale for an omega spring or bevelling the inside edge when you're done with all shaping, etc. can be extremely upsetting.