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Ok, thank you for that clarification! Smiler
 
Posts: 159 | Location: Munich, Germany | Registered: November 23, 2009Report This Post

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My opinions on the 2 steels based not so much on sharpening/dulling/resharpening, but rather on reprofiling both blade grinds and edges. Everything done on paper, including freehand reprofiling and sharpening.

Prior to buying my first BM maybe a year ago I had no experience w/ either steel. But I had done major blade and reprofiling work on several other non-BM steels, ranging from O-1 to 3V. And even tho 3V is a bugger among buggers to work w/, I still had apprehensions about D2. However, I found D2 surprisingly EZ to work. And after now having done similar work w/ 154CM, I have to say that if anything, that D2 is perhaps the easier to abrade of the 2-- this surprised me. I enjoy sharpening both of them, but seem to have less burring w/ the D2, and can get the edge I want a bit quicker w/ D2. I don't understand the difficulty many have in sharpening D2-- I have to assume that freehanding on sandpaper, rather than using a system of some kind, makes it easier for me-- I dunno-- I have no unique sharpening skills. But if I'd worked on D2 w/o knowing what it was, I might have said it's the easiest steel I've worked w/.

One big difference between the 2, and I assume this has to do w/ the hardness discussion, is the "sound" and "feel" difference. Don't really know how to describe it, 'cept to say it's like the physical act of abrasion is being transferred both into your ears, and thru your fingers into your bones as you work steels on paper. D2 has more of the "ting" you get when you tap 2 pieces of flint together. At the time I was working both, I described to a friend that if reprofiling an edge on D2 "felt/sounded" like shaving hard pure clear ice, then doing the same on 154CM felt like shaving frozen butter-- 154CM definitely feels/sounds softer, to me. I know that seems at odds w/ my earlier statement that D2 perhaps the easier to abrade, but what can I say-- these are my experiences. Rick

This message has been edited. Last edited by: ryxlyx,


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yeah, I'd take an 805M4....
 
Posts: 565 | Location: MSP>>>PDX | Registered: August 11, 2010Report This Post

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I agree that some of you may have to sharpen your 154cm more but that is probably because you use it more because it is a cheaper steel. I have to sharpen my benchmade 527 more then my rift but is that because the steel is worse, i dont know because i use my 527 way more because it was a cheaper knife.

Also asupernothing is right about the corrosion resistants of 154cm and this is what i was talking about they bring 154cm to 58-60 hrc because that is what is best for the steel they want the most corrosion resistance, the most wear resistance, and the best toughness out of that steel with out hurting either one of the other attributes to much.Like i said if 154cm was brought to a higher hrc LIKE 60-62 hrc it would greatly reduce the corrosion resistants and you cant have that in a steel that is supposed to be a stainless steel.

Back to the people that keep saying that D2 is harder to sharpen and holds and edge better, I am not saying that you are doing anything wrong but I agree that at a higher hrc D2 does have better wear resistants then 154cm but what you dont understand is that if 154cm was brought to that hrc that you would have a significant drop in corrosion resistance and toughness but still more toughness then D2. As it has been said before you want the BEST of all three in that TYPE OF STEEL that is also why there are different steels and completely diff. heat treats. You dont have to trust me but i make knives also and i use 5160 steel and have started using 154cm steel in light of all this research.

asupernothing what you dont understand is 154cm is also a air hardening steel and there are a lot of tool steel that are not air hardening. this is a common misconseption about tool steels that they are all air hardening but that is only because a lot of tool steels are air hardening. i also know this because i air harden my 154cm steel i am making my wife some kitchen knives.


a knife should never be just a sharp edge!
 
Posts: 17 | Registered: July 10, 2011Report This Post

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Since this is the Benchmade forum...does anyone have 710s in both steels? That would be an apples vs apples comparison.
 
Posts: 44 | Registered: November 07, 2009Report This Post

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I have 910's in both steels.. That would also be apples vs. apples I should think. My previous statements stand.


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Posts: 1979 | Location: OK, USA | Registered: May 31, 2010Report This Post

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quote:
if 154cm was brought to that hrc that you would have a significant drop in... toughness... but still more toughness then D2

That I doubt--


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Posts: 565 | Location: MSP>>>PDX | Registered: August 11, 2010Report This Post
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Either the difference between statistics on paper and real life are vastly different, or my 51 has the only piece of corrosion-proof D2 ever made.

The two knives I carry every day without fail are my 950 and 51. I live in South Florida. I also take both knives with me while kayaking in brackish and salt water, and they always get wet. I do not coat the blades with any kind of oil or protectant, and I use them both at least once a day to cut something or other, but I do rinse them off as a protective measure.

Judging from the way people talk, the blade on my 51 should have disintegrated into a pile of rust after these two years of EDC, yet it hasn't got so much as a speck of corrosion on it anywhere, and although I don't neglect it, I don't really dote over it like a worried parent.

As far as sharpening and holding an edge, I never bother to compare. I use a knife until it needs sharpening, then I sharpen it, and have a lot of fun doing it, too. If I like the look and feel of a Chinese 440C knife, I don't care that it's not M390 or that I'll have to sharpen it after 100 cuts instead of 200 or 300. And if it gets rusty, I have a big can of NEVR-DULL and a bunch of #0000 steel wool.

I think sometimes people worry about a problem that is so miniscule that it's practically nonexistent.

Can you tell I'm not a steel snob? Big Grin


************************************************************************
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Posts: 2640 | Location: SoFL | Registered: January 15, 2010Report This Post
"The Dragon Warrior"
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I have a little neck knife in 420HC, and I love it to death. It takes a remarkably fine edge compared to 154CM, and is easy to sharpen in camp. I never go on an overnight hike without it. The right steel for the right knife is my motto.

I searched all over the damn place to try to find a wear resistance/toughness comparison between D2 and 154CM and came up empty. But I sure have it stuck in my head that D2 was better in both columns at optimal hardness. Not sayin' that's a fact, just sayin'. Smiler

Me personally, I've always liked 154. It takes a great toothy working edge, holds it pretty well, and there are a lot of really great knives made out of the stuff.


"There is no charge for awesomeness..."
- Po (The Dragon Warrior)

Dreaming of a Lum LFTi Folding Stalker...[sigh]
 
Posts: 6012 | Location: Nor+Cal | Registered: September 22, 1999Report This Post

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Doc said:
quote:
As far as sharpening and holding an edge... I use a knife until it needs sharpening, then I sharpen it, and have a lot of fun doing it, too. If I like the look and feel of a... knife, I don't care that it's not M390 or that I'll have to sharpen it after 100 cuts instead of 200 or 300


Couldn't have said it better, Doc!


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Posts: 565 | Location: MSP>>>PDX | Registered: August 11, 2010Report This Post

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Experience is important. Buck's 420HC takes a great edge quite readily from the corners of the white files in my Spydie Sharpmaker. No, that edge won't last like their CPM154 or S30V - but it is a lot easier/faster to resharpen - and you learn when to 'stop'. Oddly, so does M390 - if my much used 755 MPR is an example. That dictated my 581 and 480-1 purchases.

Stainz


171, 201, 275BK, 420, 425, 426, 480-1, 520, 525, 551, 581, 610, 615, 630 x 2, 635BK, 670, 672, 710, 720, 755, 755BK, 760BK, 790, 805, 950, 3150, 5000, 6150, 9555BK, 15005-2, 15020-1, 15030-2
 
Posts: 358 | Registered: August 08, 2009Report This Post
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