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Anyone sharpen a 940 on an Edge Pro?
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Anyone sharpen a 940 on an Edge Pro? Which part of the blade do you put on the EP table? The original flat where the thumb studs are (which is veeeery narrow on a 940)? Or on the main grin / bevel? I've tried both (didn't remove the thumb studs; would next time). Both see to be quite "rocky", when the blade-to-EP-table-stability seems to be KEY! Any advice, experiences, horror stories, etc. would be most appreciated! Thanks kids! ----- I expect nothing from anyone. I am entitled to nothing tangible. I am an American Original. I'm looking to buy specific Red, Blue, Black, & Green 940 variants. PM me! Boomerangs 'n Butterflies: An Osborne Alliance | President & Member #940 Bravo, Foxtrot, Delta...Han. I made the Kessel Run in less than ten parsecs... | ||
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| "Steel Snob M-4" |
You seem to already have your answer ......stability is the key. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Contempt Prior to Investigation - Dont knock it till you,ve tried it. Lum Lunatic #8 .......... "The Society for the Preservation of The AFCK" Boomerangs 'n Butterflies: An Osborne Alliance #8 | |||
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| "Non nobis Domine" |
Yes and it works just fine. I'm getting into the habit of removing the studs on knives like my 943 so there's more of the stable flat part of the blade to sit on the EP table. Most of my problems with accurate edges are because of the 'warbling' while working the stones across the edge. The factory edge on my 943 was OK, but after a half hour on the EP is a different slicer. 350, 520, 525BK-1101, 530, 580-1102, 580 Proto, 583-1, 585-1, 710-1, 710-2, 710D2, 710HS, 722, 732, 740, 740 Proto, 741, 745, 746, 746-1201, 750, 790, 800, 800HS, 805-1101, 810, 812, 830, 831, 835HS, 840, 845, 890, 905, 907D2, 910, 910SCG, 912D2, 913D2, 12400 Proto, 12410, 14205, 14210, 40022-100. Charter Member #7 - Lum Lunatics. Boomerangs 'n Butterflies: An Osborne Alliance | Member #585 | |||
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Anyone sharpen a 940 on an Edge Pro?
