i own 2 benchmades so far , 1 pe sateen blade griptilian and a black combo bladed one, both brand new the non serrated part of the combo blade is a bit sharper than the full pe blade and im wondering why this is, are the black coated ones sharper, are the combo ones sharper, is this a fluke. the full pe blade doesnt seem as thick at and the final grind and the final grind is not as steep due to that. what are your experiences with this/ opinions? thanks!

also is the hg any sharper than a reg drop
point type blade on the grips? anybody have pics close up of these blades for comparison? thanks!

I think they are hand ground, so all will be different.

And the drop point us a flat grind which tapers to a thicker primary edge than a hollow ground blade would. The thinner primary bevel means that it will have a sharper edge but a more delicate edge. So that means the flat ground is usually stronger.

quote:

Originally posted by ericjj89:
also is the hg any sharper than a reg drop
point type blade on the grips? anybody have pics close up of these blades for comparison? thanks!

BM hand sharpens their knives. They do not hand grind them. Hand ground = custom blades usually. The degree will vary and so will the sharpness from knife to knife. Also blade style has a lot to do with the sharpness and well as steel. A thinner blade will feel sharper IMHO. Also S30V and 154cm will feel toothier on the edge.

On production knives, it seems to me, that blade sharpness is always the luck of the draw. Any grind 'could' have a super-sharp blade, or not.

Morning...

That's what I like about the SharpMaker. Makes it easy to put those knives that arrive less than stellar into good shape with just a few strokes.

Now the only ones I send up to BM are the D2 bladed versions, but only if they're really dull.

Good investment these 204's are.

+1 on what Joe said.

Yes sir, I follow the same procedure with my BMs. I check the edge when I first open the box, usually do couple of strokes on the white rods on the Sharpmaker, and they're good to go...

Since the blades are hand sharpened, as has been said above, any drop off in sharpness is usually mostly a factor of human error and attitude.

Some thick blades like on a 760 are pretty limited on how sharp you can get and keep them.

I don't think blade thickness plays any part in sharpness, making them and keeping them sharp is easy, the only loss with a thicker blade is usually a fat bevel.

Proper application of the correct tool(s) can eliminate blade thickness, think Krein regrind or EdgePro or belt sander. fat blades just mean more steel to grind.