I would like some insight on assisted opening knives, info on things like inherent weakneses such as the effect of dust and sand, longevity of the sping/s, disassembly and assembly and of course the differant types of mechanics if there are any on differant types of assisted opening knives.
Thanks in advance.

All I know is whats in here http://www.benchmade.com/about...cking_mechanisms.asp

I have a nitrous stryer and an apparition and I personnally don't like either.

The big difference between automatic and assisted knives is when things don't work right.

With an auto knife, if the spring fails it doesn't open and on some knives you're kind of hosed.

With an assisted knife you're the one opening the knife and if the spring doesn't take over you just have to do the whole job yourself.

What Steve says. I like AO's and my favorites in the bunch are the new Axis models. Best of both worlds and legal to carry virtually anywhere. Worst case would be for both springs to break (unlikely) and shove a twig through the Axis opening. Can't do that with the best of the auto's out there.

This is where coil spring autos with button locks absolutely rock, possibly auto axis as well.

OTFs are the ones you'll most likely get hosed on if the spring breaks.

Assis mechanisms vary widely, the apparition uses a torsion bar, that is to say a long cylindrical piece of tempered steel as a spring. It's one of the easiest assists to make non-assisted.

I'd suggest taking a look at benchmades website where they explain a bit about the mechanisms.

Based on my gut feelings and internet crawling I'd go with a beefy button lock before an OTF design.

i am looking into an assisted knife. if it is going to be a benchmade , it will definitely be the new warn assisted barrage 583-1 plain edge

I believe the 670 Apparition series used what BM call the 'Optimiser', a tensioning spring bar as opposed to a 'torsion' spring, which would rotate about the rod's axis, as in a car's stabilizer bar, etc.

AO isn't a paper weight when the assist spring fails - unless it blocks the blades movement. In fully auto, an OTF is usually a paper weight when the main spring breaks. If you must carry an auto for protection, OTF, however, gives you a handle to hold on as you deploy the blade - an AXIS lock auto, like my 6150, swings, meaning you must hold on with a bare fingers only hold - until deployed - then a better grip can be employed. I can deploy my manual 615 just as fast or faster. My 6150, a wife-gift, is a novelty - I plan no more auto purchases. I carry something louder as my legal 24/7 CCW.

Stainz

I've always prefered AO knives to autos with one exception...the auto-axis type. All the other autos I've handled use the same release button to open and close the blade. The proximity of the button to my thumb makes me very uncomfortable with the risk of an accidental closing. However the axis lock solves this problem because you have to explicity pull back the axis lock to release the blade. An accidental "press" is much more likely than an accidental "pull".

On the other hand, AO's don't have this issue at all since there's no button to press to close the blade.

Lately, I've been EDCing a manual Spyderco Endura 4 Wave. I find that with a little practice, I can manually open it almost as fast as an assisted or auto and when I use the wave feature, it's way faster than either.

Also, there are no springs of moving parts. I can stick the thing in the dishwasher if I want.

Welcome TG.

I like the AO Axis models MUCH more than either the early Optimizer or later Nitrous versions. My 580/585 knives are super smooth without the legalities of owning Otto's in Cali, and are just as quick to open.

Enjoy your Benchmades!

quote:

Originally posted by damocles1962:
All I know is whats in here http://www.benchmade.com/about...cking_mechanisms.asp

I have a nitrous stryer and an apparition and I personnally don't like either.

Would you mind telling us why? I'd really like to know. Forewarned is forearmed.