Due to the recent run of the 42s I've gotten a chance to handle some. I noticed a lot of play between the handles and the blade that might border on sloppiness.

I'm much more used to folders, and I like the smooth action of BM's AXIS models where sliding back the AXIS bar allows a well-adjusted and lubed blade to pivot freely. I understand that you want even more freedom of movement when flipping, but there's a LOT of movement in these new 42s.

It's difficult to center a folding knife exactly, and as long as the blade doesn't touch either liner it doesn't really affect the performance of the knife. In the case of the new 42s, you can rattle the blade around in the channel of each handle, and the blade can easily touch either side of either channel.

So in short, is this expected in balis? Should the blade be loose enough to touch both sides of the handles? Or do these 42s need some service to tighten them up? Thanks!

It's normal, especially in channel style balis. Sure, there can be too much, but odds are it's fine. The only way to get rid of the slop is to go to a ball bearing type pivot. The blade will rub on the sides a little, perfectly normal. Some of the more experienced on here might be able to describe exactly how much is normal.

Obviously, to properly manipulate (flip) a balisong, the blade can't be as tight as a folding knife or else the blade and handles will get stuck either partially open or closed. What works for me is something that I saw on a YouTube tutorial some time ago.

Generally, the handles of a fully open balisong should be loose enough so that the inside edge of one handle should be at the same level as the inside edge of the opposite handle. These two photos show what I'm talking about:

A 42:


And a 51:


Of course, everyone prefers their own individual "tuning," your mileaga may vary.

Thanks for the replies! I knew that balis should be looser, but I didn't know what was the generally accepted amount of play. Thanks for the pics and description; I'll go try that out when I get home today. =)

Cool. First time I've seen a measurable way to judge it. Thanks.

Even my IKBS Korth Panther has about half a channel width of play.

My 42 has the least of all my balis though, and still swings perfectly.

I guess I should mention that the "tuning" method I showed above is best viewed as a starting point. A few of my less expensive balisongs are left pretty close to the way I photographed them above, but pretty much all of my higher-end knives are tuned a bit tighter, and most of my $20.00-and-below models are, as well. In fact, you can see in he photos that the 51 is about where I described it, but the 42 is definitely tighter. It's amazing how smooth the MTech cheapies are, especially when set a bit tighter than the above method.

Now, another, probably better, method, which is how I tune my EDCs:

1. Open your balisong knife fully, with the blade tip pointing straight up.

2. Hold one handle in place while lifting the other around toward the blade. Make swure you're not pushing the handle upward, which would affect the outcome. If the blade tips over, the handle is too tight and should be loosened. If not, try tightening it until the blade does tip over, then back off the screw until moving the handle doesn't affect the blade.

BE CAREFUL! Keep your hands and fingers out of the way of the cutting edge of the blade!! If the blade tips over onto your finger, and it's as sharp as I keep mine, you'll be needing stitches!!!

Another caveat: When holding the knife with the blade tip-up, leaning the knife in ANY direction will cause the blade to either bind somewhat with the handle, or cause the weight of the blade to give a false result. This is a pretty tricky method that takes some practice to get right. Then again, pretty much anything to do with balisong knives takes practice!

This is the best method I've found for really fine-tuning a balisong knife. Then again, I've used this method and had even better results by flipping the knife afterwards, then loosening or tightening by feel. It's all about getting out your wrench and doing it until you find what works best for you and your knife. For me, it's usually a combination.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: TheDoctor,

I have two criteria for high end balis: 1) I should be able to adjust the pivot screws to the point where the handles don't move without the screws bottoming out and 2) the blade doesn't slap the handles during operation.

To adjust I: clean and loc-tite the pivot screw, then, with that handle open and the other closed, I tighten the pivot till the handle doesn't move, then back out little by little until the handle falls freely the moment it goes over center.

Nothing feels or sounds worse to me than a loose bali... I feel like I'm shaking a tool box. I'll send a high in bali right in for W&R if the blade hits the handles or if I can't adjust the screws, its not like its going to get tighter with use...

I don't know how they do it, with a micrometer and precision washers I'd presume, but it doesn't seem too hard for them to fix.

I expect loose balis from that Stainless China company that floods the cheapy market, but if I'm paying 15,20,30 times the money, you bet I have a couple of expectations.